Tag Archives: Vietnam

My aunt and cousins visiting during Kristi's last day in Vietnam.

Why Am I Here???

Never did I imagine that I would be here in Vietnam, learning the language, indulging in the food, enjoying the culture and at the least – meeting my father’s family. I’ve always wanted to travel and live abroad and become fluent in another language. Visiting my sister’s boyfriend – now fiancé – in Japan helped me to see that these things were possible. Furthermore, moving to Korea made me realize that I could actually live abroad. Now, being in Vietnam has helped me to strive to live and thrive in these things that I’ve always wanted to do.

Although I’m not near fluent in the language, I’ve learned a lot about not only Vietnamese, but also the culture from taking classes that VUS offers for foreign teachers. The teacher is really great and helps all of the students go above and beyond what our minds can do – even if we only have class twice a week with no tests. Learning the language of the country I’m residing in as a foreigner has been really helpful, especially in the neighborhood that we live in and because I am actually Vietnamese, people expect me to speak it. But, when I do, I speak with the most horrific pronunciation. They always give me a double take. However, my limited Vietnamese has been most rewarding when I try to speak to my family in Rạch Giá.


They understand where I am from and that my mother was adopted during the war when she was only 3 years old in 1967. They understand that my adopted grandparents are Mỹ trắng (White American) and therefore my mother did not grow up speaking Vietnamese. But, what is strange is that my father didn’t instill in me the language. I think it’s because he didn’t want to think about Vietnam and the heartache that his family went through during and after the war. He was in America and speaking English was what was important to him.

Although my father and I have lost touch with each other, I am thankful that I have had the chance to meet his family. I’m also grateful that both of my sisters have had the opportunity to visit Vietnam and meet them as well. I’ve learned a lot about the culture of a small town family as well as about my family’s history.

I’ve only been to Rạch Giá, their hometown, three times. My family is huge! My father had six other brothers and sisters. His father had seven other brothers and sisters and each of those had about six or seven children as well. In addition, everyone lives on the same street! The closest I am to this family is, of course, the family who lives in Arkansas now. My Great Uncle and all of his kids except for the eldest daughter moved to Vietnam by boat when the war ended. Soon after, my father and his brother followed.

Times were really hard during and after the war and the family doesn’t really like to talk about it. What I have gathered from trying to talk to my family, other people and from reading, is that after the fall of Saigon, people who worked for the South Vietnamese government were sent to reeducation camps. There, most of these people were tortured or killed. So, tons of people fled the country. In my family’s case, they fled Vietnam because of poverty and the famine. Before the war, they had a nice life and were somewhat wealthy. After the war, they had nothing. They wanted to find a better life for themselves. Therefore, they fled the country by boat with thousands of other people. Little did they know that the waves and storms would push them to Thailand. Fortunately, they were lucky enough to have survived the seas and refugee camps and flew to California and then Arkansas.

Back in Vietnam, the eldest sister of my Great Uncle (whom I am supposed to call Co Hai – each person is referred to by which number they are in the family, Hai means two, although she is the first child…) had to stay in Vietnam to take care of her grandparents who were still alive. They were very poor after the war and a lot of things happened. After years had passed, Co Hai got married and helped her husband with his family’s fishing business. The quality of their lives became better and better. Now, they have eight huge fishing boats and are building more as we speak. This part of the family has become very wealthy.

On the other hand, my father’s sister (Co Bay {aunt seven}), who has really embraced that her nieces came to visit, has a rice business. She buys the rice from farmers and sells the rice to markets. Co Bay still lives in the house that her parents lived in. She’s very humble and doesn’t like to show that she also makes a good amount of money. Although these families are very close in physical proximity, they are somewhat removed from each other. I can really see this when I hang out with my cousins who are about 22 years old. There always seems to be some sort of irritation between them.

It’s very interesting to be around my family. Even with the language barrier, I have learned a lot about my family, Vietnam’s history and the Vietnamese culture. They possess all traits that I’ve seen in Vietnamese cultures in America, some are humble yet aggressive and some are conventional and sweet from a first impression. As with any type of people, as I spend more time with certain people in my family, because I couldn’t possibly spend time with each person in my family, I’ve learned more and more about the abrasive language, quietly assertive women and hard-working men who like to party hard. We have been here for six months now and I look forward to learning more and more about Vietnam, the language and the people.

Part of the Family with Mailena and Justin

Soft Sleeper, photo courtesy of Seat61.com

Rock-a-bye Baby…on the Sleeper Car

The soft sleeper night trains are the more luxurious way to travel in Vietnam besides for airplane. The trains have a lot of seating options; hard or soft seat, and hard or soft sleeper. Because we’ve been traveling with a lot of important things, we’ve been traveling on the more expensive option on the train, the soft sleeper. There are four beds in one room and plenty of space for a ll of our luggage. It’s also pretty safe because there’s a lock on the door and the other two passengers are usually other travelers or wealthy Vietnamese men.

Like I said, it’s a little more expensive for this ride. We took a soft sleeper car from Hanoi to Sapa for nine hours. The price was included in our tour, but it’s supposed to be around $20 to $40 USD, one way. We also took a soft sleeper car from Ninh Binh to Hue for 12 hours for about $20 USD. The soft sleeper car is very comfortable. I slept like a baby being rocked to sleep. Thank goodness the operators knock on your door to wake you.

To get a more accurate quote on train prices, click here.

Sleeper Bus

Public Transportation in Vietnam – Sleeper Bus

The sleeper buses are pretty comfortable if you are no taller than me. I’m 5 feet 2 inches – 155cm. It has two levels and three rows of seats. It’s a really great way to travel the country if you’re trying to save time and money. We took a sleeper bus from Hue to Hoi An, four hours for 70,000 VND ($3.50 USD) because that was the only option.

We also took one from Hoi An to Nha Trang, 12 hours for 150,000 VND ($7.50 USD). The bus departed at 6:30pm, made a stop for 30 minutes in the middle of nowhere and arrived at 6:30am in Nha Trang. You’re pretty much required to sleep because they turn off all of the lights. So be sure to bring a reading lamp if you plan to read. Otherwise, with any overnight or long mode of transportation, it will probably be difficult to sleep. I’m a hard sleeper and only slept for half the time, if that. Others only had an hour of sleep.

However, sometimes there are other options – night trains.

Ha Long Bay Sunset

Mountains Resting on Water

Imagine thousands of mountains rising from the water at different heights. Ha Long Bay covers more than 1,500 square kilometers in Northeastern Vietnam and is made up of thousands of islets of various shapes and sizes. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site that is clearly amazing. It seems endless. Randy described it as New Zealand on water.

Beneath the green trees on the limestone masses of rock are dark cool caves. We went to several different caves. The first one was very touristy. They set up green, purple and blue lights all around the cave and had a manmade walkway. On the second day of the tour, we went to caves where it seemed like hardly anyone had visited. We took a kayak to most of these and used a flashlight (or “torch,” which is what our Vietnamese tour guide called it).

The most interesting cave and area of the bay was when we kayaked through a pitch-dark cave! The water was pretty high because it’s still rainy season, so we had to be very careful not the hit our heads on the ceiling. In addition, we only had one torch. All we could hear were bats flying over our heads. But, after we got through the eerie cave, we saw the most beautiful part of Ha Long. There were no other tourists and it was a closed in bay area. We finally got to swim after kayaking all day. But, we had to be very careful because when the oysters die, their shells somehow are attached onto the side of the walls and rocks that are at the bottom of the bay. This water was deep enough so that we didn’t have to touch the rocks, but from the side the rocks were still very sharp. I recommend wearing some type of water shoes.

We also saw a floating village, which was really cool. There are four floating villages in Ha Long Bay. This one was the largest with about 500 people. About 1,000 people live in these villages. It seems like they rely on tourists and fishing to help with living expenses. They fish for squid and oysters.

Ha Long Bay is truly amazing. Unfortunately, the only way to really get there is through a tour group, which isn’t all that bad. They offer a round trip bus ticket from and to Hanoi, one or two nights on a boat, all meals and kayaking. Some tours offer rock climbing and other water sports like wake boarding. However, it depends on what kind of tour you book. Some tours are really cheap and some are really expensive. Let’s just say that you get what you pay for.

Morning at Ha Long Bay

Pagoda in Hanoi

Discovering Hanoi

This trip to Vietnam was different from the other trip that we took in February.  Something felt different. We were not anxious because we want to take our time and visit the country and then settle down in Saigon.

When we arrived in Hanoi, the streets were quiet and wet even though our hostel was in a backpackers’ area. The one thing that you can’t get away from is the rain. Rainy season in Vietnam is roughly between May and September.

You see the French influence from the structures when you walk around the winding streets of Hanoi. Hanoi is filled with many restaurants and wonderful shopping.

Our first meal in Hanoi was a bowl of Pho Bo for 20,000 VND (1 dollar). We noticed that the Pho from the south and north are somewhat different. Some say it’s the broth. All in all northern or southern pho is great!

We went on a walking tour of the city at the French Quarter near the lake. We walked around the city taking photos of locals and the city, as the country was getting ready to celebrate Vietnamese Independence Day.

The rain was very overwhelming and we ended up going back around our place for a dinner. We ended up going to a small bar, which sold a Liter of Bia Ha Noi for 10,000 vnd (50 cents). We spent an hour there and one dollar later we were off. We picked up a few beers and banh mi sandwiches and spent the night drinking and talking about our travels.

The final resting place of Uncle Ho is a must-see when visiting Hanoi. It is an extremely popular pilgrimage for Vietnamese as well, so arrive early. Opening Hours: Tuesday to Thursday & weekends from 8am to 11am

Nightlife in Hanoi is pretty straightforward. Party until its midnight then the local police comes by each establishment to make sure they are not operating. We went to a bar next to our hostel in which the business owner told us the night before cops came by a few minutes after midnight and he had a few patrons and he hid them in his house. It reminds you that you’re in socialist Vietnam. In Saigon, however have completely different rules, which are similar to in the west.

We have met many interesting people along our way and we look forward to what Vietnam holds for us over the next few months.

Women in front of the Opera House in Hanoi